Destroy field horsetail : How to combat it permanently

The field horsetail goes by many names, such as horsetail, field horsetail, tin weed, cattail, horse's tail, sheep's hay, pan pansy or scouring weed. No matter what we call it, this perennial and persistent wild plant remains a troublemaker in the garden that needs to be combated. Unfortunately, unlike the shallow-rooted plants goutweed or couch grass, it cannot simply be covered with fleece or garden film. This is because horsetail spreads through strongly branched rhizomes that root up to 1.50 metres deep into the soil. The deep-rooted rhizome cannot actually be removed and new stalks sprout up again and again - a real test of patience for every gardener.

The spread of horsetail has so far only been prevented by preventative measures such as improving the quality of the soil. However, if you already have a garden and everything is well tended and cared for, you certainly don't want to dig up the whole soil.

Today we are therefore introducing you to a really effective method with a lasting effect. It is 100% organic and also does away with strenuous, bent-over work. We will also explain how to utilise the removed plant cuttings.

A mnemonic for recognising the field horsetail: Did you know that the name of the whisk, as used in a hand mixer, for example, has its origins here? The shape of the leaf growth of some plants, including that of the field horsetail, is called a whorl. In plants, a whorl is when 3 or more leaves are attached to a common node. This shape is reminiscent of the whisk as we know it today as a kitchen utensil.

In the garden you will first find the horsetail as a small brown spur shoot, which is responsible for pollination. These die back towards May and give way to green leafy shoots, which come to light with the following typical characteristics.

Characteristics

• Shoot: brown spur shoot
• Leaf shape: typical leaf whorls without flowers
• Leaf stalk: green with 6 to 20 knotless shoots (ribs), hollow and ribbed in cross-section
• Taste: bitter, reminiscent of mushroom flavour
• Growth: approx. 30 to 50 cm
• Time: Sprouts until May, followed by green shoots
• Soil: compacted, waterlogged, loamy
• Location: Garden with firm soil, meadow edges, embankments and ditches, fields

Horsetail is considered the most important indicator of waterlogging in agriculture. Horsetail prefers to grow in loamy, moist soils. One way to get rid of the perennial garden weed is therefore to improve the soil quality.

Waterlogging occurs when the soil underneath is compacted. These compacted areas need to be removed. In agriculture, a so-called deep chisel is used for this purpose, which is moved across the arable land by a tractor. In private gardens, however, you will unfortunately have to do this strenuous work by hand with a digging fork. What's more, you may have already planted a garden and tended it well. You certainly don't want to dig up all the soil there and make it more water-permeable with sand and compost. That's why today we're introducing you to another method that leads to success without any effort.

What to bear in mind

• Only easy to implement in open areas
• After digging up the soil, add value to it by mixing in sand and compost
• If you have horsetail in your lawn, experience has shown that the soil is too acidic. You can lime the area to increase the pH value

Destroy, clean and disinfect weeds

Green manuring is a tried and tested method of replacing an undesirable plant, such as horsetail, with another plant. Lupins are ideally suited to displacing horsetail. The suitability of the plant as a competitor to field horsetail lies in the deep taproots of the lupin. This root form penetrates the deep soil layers and loosens the soil. The soil becomes more permeable and waterlogging is less likely to occur. 

However, green manuring with lupins is not a solution that destroys the troublesome weed without further work. The horsetail can only be suppressed to such an extent within one season that you still have to keep the remains under control by regularly hoeing it off. If you don't pay meticulous attention to keeping the weeds small, you can start all over again with the green manure in the fight against the plant.  

What else to consider 

• Despite the competing plant, horsetail still has a deep root system that sprouts again every year. Watch out for the recurring shoots. Chop them off regularly before the plants grow large  
• Note that you will have to do without your bed for a season to allow the competing plant to take effect  
• Unfortunately, methods such as covering with fleece or garden film, which are suitable for controlling creeping roots, do not work with horsetail

Both of these plants prefer a location with moist environmental conditions, which is why they can easily be confused with each other. However, this risk of confusion with horsetails should be borne in mind. The marsh horsetail contains a number of toxins. With the following characteristics you can easily distinguish the field horsetail from its poisonous twin, Equisetum palustre.

Location

The names of the plants already provide information about where they usually grow. Marsh horsetail prefers to grow in marshy areas, but less so in meadows and fields.

The different shoots

Both horsetails reproduce via spores. The so-called sporangia of field horsetail sprout first and die after pollination. Only then do the green leaf shoots appear. If both green leaf shoots and brown shoots can be seen at the same time, you are dealing with marsh horsetail.

The stem

The stems of marsh horsetail are significantly narrower than those of field horsetail.

The length of the side shoots

The distance between the leaf shoots compared to the length of the individual segments of the side shoots allows you to identify a plant beyond doubt. If a segment of the lateral shoots is longer than the distance from this leaf shoot to the next leaf shoot, it is horsetail.

Removing weeds with hot water is up to 20 times more effective than with conventional methods such as gas burners or hot air blowers and other household remedies.

Unkrautfuchs works with constantly regulated hot water (temperature above 90° C). Our patented control ensures a constant temperature close to boiling point. Only at temperatures close to boiling point does the effect occur and the plant cells are destroyed.

As a result, the weed can no longer absorb water and photosynthesis can no longer take place - the plant dries out.

advantages of Unkrautfuchs

• The Unkrautfuchs is your ideal companion for combating horsetail in mixed plantings. Due to the selective application, surrounding plants are not damaged.
• The application with hot water only, the convenient handling - without bending down and the lasting effect after only a few applications are convincing.
• Can be used in any weather, don't wait any longer for good weather
• Problem-free use in vegetable gardens, on terraces, paths, high-quality ceramics, lawns and sandboxes

Including steam function for cleaning and disinfecting

The garden herb is not only a natural medicinal plant, but also ideal as an environmentally friendly plant protection. You can conjure up an effective plant protection decoction from horsetail. After cutting, treat the roots with Unkrautfuchs to curb the growth or destroy the horsetail completely. Horsetail contains silicic acid, which is known in naturopathy as a tissue-strengthening agent. This effect can be transferred to the cells of the plant. Horsetail therefore helps to strengthen ornamental and crop plants. The plants become more resistant to various fungi such as scab, late blight, star sooty mould and grey mould. The plants also become more robust against mildew and pests such as aphids.

And this is how it works

Method 1

1. Add approx. 100 g plant parts of the cut field horsetail in 1 litre of water
2. Leave the mixture to infuse for 24 hours
3. Sieve the plant pieces, done!

Method 2 - quicker alternative &

1. Leave the same mixture (100 g per 1 litre) to infuse for just 12 hours
2. After 12 hours, bring the brew to the boil briefly and simmer for a further 15 minutes
3. The plant protection must now cool down
4. Then sieve out the plant parts, done!

Mix the finished biological decoction into the irrigation water in a ratio of 1 :10. Particularly vulnerable plants, such as roses, are best watered weekly with the mixture. This will increase their resistance to classic rose diseases such as rose rust and powdery mildew. If your plants are externally infested by aphids, fungi or mites, spray the diluted extract directly onto the leaves and stems of the plants. Repeat the treatment on 3 consecutive days